The French arm of McDonald’s may no longer be the target of local farmers and gastronomes who attacked it in decades past. But next month, the chain will ask the French if they’d like frites with their Mona Lisa, as it prepares to open a branch at what could be called Ground Zero of French culture: the Louvre. As one art historian said, the move represents “the pinnacle of exhausting consumerism, deficient gastronomy and very unpleasant odours in the context of a museum.”