So Do Those Headlight Restoration Kits Actually Work?

If, like me, you’re a regular watcher of basic cable programming (yay for House marathons on a dreary Sunday!), you’ve probably seen the ads for those kits that promise to restore car headlights that have fogged over or dulled from oxidation. They promise to clear up that haze quickly and cheaply, but do they work?

Luckily, we know the testers at Consumer Reports, who decided to try out a handful of these kits to see if they could make good on their promises.

CR tested out the following four kits, all retailing for less than $25:
3M Headlight Lens Restoration System 29008 ($15)
Fast Brite Auto Headlight Restorer Kit ($17)
Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit ($21)
Turtle Wax Headlight Lens Restorer ($9)

The good news is that even the worst-performing of the bunch was able to drastically improve light output.

However, while the ads for the kits make it seem like a simple wipe-and-you’re-done process, CR discovered that most of the products required several steps, and you could spend upwards of an hour just to restore two headlight lenses. The 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System actually requires the use of an electric drill and sanding discs, which means you could risk scratching the paint on your car if you’re not careful.

The whole CR report on headlight restoration kits can be read here.


Edit Your Comment

  1. milty45654 says:

    toothpaste FTW

    • kc2idf says:

      I was going to suggest that very thing. You can also use baking soda. The idea is to use a fine abrasive to undo the damage done by the course abrasive that is road dirt.

      You will need to use lots of elbow grease, though.

      • framitz says:

        It’s not just road dirt, the _primary_ damage is caused by UV from the sun.
        They would go bad just sitting outside for a few years without ever being driven.
        You have to remove the oxidized layer to make them right again for a while.

      • Fiona says:

        Alternatively, a good detail shop will use their buffer-tools for you. A nearby carwash/detail shop did mine for $20.

    • TouchMyMonkey says:

      Wet-sanding works better. I did an old car once, and got impressive results with what I could find at the body-repair section of our local auto parts store. You would be surprised what 2000-grit wet sandpaper can do for crazed-over polycarbonate. Follow that up with polishing compound (red, then white), and you’re done.

  2. NightSteel says:

    Great, but how long before the headlight lenses ‘fog’ back over again? I’ve heard that while these kits seem to work alright, they don’t last.

    • Taliskan says:

      I used the 3M one. About 9 months. I am annoyed that they decided to fog back over during the winter. That this with protecting the lenses with wax. Ah well. I got it cheap and it was a hell of a lot more labor than I planned on to boot.

      I’ve been told good things about the Turtle Wax kit, so I might try that next.

    • PHRoG says:

      As far as I know, there are 3 different kinds of kits.

      The first uses polishing compound to buff out the scratches and pitting that creates the haze. Removing the old and damaged material. This is recreates the same clear surface it had when new and will stay clear the longest as they will wear the same as new. If using a drill to aid in buffing, remember to take it nice and slow as it’s quite easy to cause too much friction causing burns on the plastic lens.

      The second uses a clear acrylic polymer to fill the scratches and pitting that creates the haze. The polymer will eventually wash and wear off resulting in the haze returning rather quickly. These are often sold as simple wipe and walk away systems.

      The third uses an acid (such as that used in glass etching cream) to dissolve the worn material away, which simply apply, wait and wipe off. I’ve seen this give both good and bad results resulting in hazy patches over the headlight lens. If you get good results with this, it should last just as long as the first method as you’ve essentially resurfaced the lens. However if you have poor results, you can usually repair the lens using the first method above.

      Hope that helps!

      • Jason Litka says:

        I’ve got the Mother’s Headlight Restoration kit and I need to redo it every 6-8 weeks.

        • bigroblee says:

          I know this doesn’t apply to everyone but by checking Craigs and eBay for several weeks I was able to get a new pair of headlights for my Dodge Ram for $50; just over two applications of one of these kits. Mine were terribly oxidized as the truck had been parked for just over two years in Southern California. Pain it complete crap, interior is completely destroyed, headlights lenses are yellow; upside, no rust, ’97 4WD with only 73 k miles, and is in perfect mechanical condition.

      • hansolo247 says:

        the UV coating is completely removed, so yes, the hazing comes back. rinse and repeat.

        The way to do it right is to polish and clear-coat. That will last several years.

    • alana0j says:

      Ok so besides how efficient they are, are there any that can remove stuff from the INSIDE of the headlight? I drive an ’06 Impala that used to be a police cruiser so the headlights have a hole where the strobes used to be. I got the headlight restoration service at Wal-Mart but it could only do so much since I have issues on the interior of the headlights as well…

      • James says:

        Junkyard and pull headlight assembly. Or buy off of a car site (Rockauto or the like) and probably a new set of torx type screwdrivers.

        Check the local library for a manual on your car and read up on how difficult it is to replace.

        Had to replace a taillight on my car, and dealerships wanted north of $300 for one light. Online and replaced, plus 15 mins of my own, was under $75.

        • alana0j says:

          I’ve been looking around online for replacement headlights. But the absolute cheapest I could locate were over $100 for the pair, which I just don’t have right now. I may check the local pick-a-part and see if they have them there. I didn’t really think it’d be possible to get it off the inside but I figured that maybe there was some sort of solution you could pour into it or something…

    • Sian says:

      if you want to do it right, you clear it over once it’s polished.

      If you want to do it double-right, you then put a 3m clearfilm over the top, to protect it from further gravel and UV damage. The clearfilm will last 3-5 years easy and is a snap to replace besides.

      headlight film and clearbra=best automotive invention of the past decade.

  3. Cat says:

    Nice useless link. Anyone who has a subscription and is willing, please share some ratings.

    I’ve used two different kits before, and they both provided an inadequate amount of sealant. Enough polish for several uses, but only enough sealant for 1 or 2 uses. I thought the kit that used the drill to polish provided better and longer lasting results.

    I miss glass headlight lenses.

  4. nbs2 says:

    That’s why you use painters tape with the 3M kit.

    Also, linking to a paywall is poor form, regardless their paymaster status to you

    • bigroblee says:

      I absolutely agree with this; linking to a paywall is a poor choice. At the very least they could have provided the best and worst in the list.

  5. elangomatt says:

    Ahh good old paywalls with an article that gives zero results in the tease. I need to remember to take a look at the magazine section next time I am at the grocery store to see what rated the best.

  6. Jim M says:

    What we tested

    Listed in performance order.




    Sylvania Headlight
    Restoration Kit


    Six steps. Most improvement with no degradation over three months.

    3M Headlight Lens
    Restoration System 29008


    Four steps. Great improvement with no degradation. Requires an electric drill.

    Turtle Wax Headlight
    Lens Restorer


    Six steps. Great improvement but sealant wore away within two months.

    Fast Brite Auto
    Headlight Restorer Kit


    Two steps. Easiest to use, least improvement. Sealant wore off within two months.

  7. Rick Sphinx says:

    The kits that do work (as seen on Motorweeks Pat Goss segment), I’ve tried them as well. Go to your local autoparts store. The kits will include compound, some type of abrasive for sanding, and sealer to coat once the restoration is complete. They do last a year so so, depends on your area, if you live in snow/salt with sanders on the road, will probably shorten the life. But I would go with the tried and true, not anything “as seen on TV” stuff. Remember, a kitchen sponge soaks up more liquid and an Sham-Wow!, and there is more caffine in a cup of 59cent homemade coffee, than $3…5-hour energy bottles.

    • Rick Sphinx says:

      By the way, I have seen headlight protective film available, may help preserve in the first place. Never tried them, but may be worth checking out. Just like the film you put on your smartphone for a screen protector, just made for cars/UV light.

  8. El_Fez says:

    Headlight Restoration is total snake oil! All you usually need to do is top off the headlight fluid.

  9. full.tang.halo says:

    Wow, upwards of a whole hour?…..

    It’s this or replace the whole headlamp assembly, and I’ll bet that’s gonna cost you more than $25 and an hour of your time.

  10. incident man stole my avatar says:

    The car dealership wanted $200 to clean the headlights, amazing what comes up with the “free” check-up

    • hansolo247 says:

      If that’s to do it right, that’s not terrible. $100 is pretty good.

      Of course, I’m sure the dealer isn’t doing it right.

    • Nighthawke says:

      $200USD can get you two new and better lenses online. I got new front and back lens assemblies for my aging truck all around. That included circuit boards for the tail lamps and the mounting brackets for the headlights. The newer lenses are twice as bright than the OEM builds, I can see better at night (that and white Sylvania Halogens help) and folks behind me can see my brake lights easily.

      Save your $$$ and get new lenses, it’s not that difficult to get new lenses installed, just follow the instructions and GET THEM ALIGNED PROPERLY!

  11. namcam says:

    mothers chrome polish…sounds strange, but it works the BEST!

    • framitz says:

      I use Mother’s aluminum wheel polish for the final stage. I use that stuff to polish just about anything hard, plastic, paint, steel, and even aluminum.

      I use New Finish polish for the sealer, again on just about everything.

  12. Gravitational Eddy says:

    Really good trick is to spray a little WD-40 on a clean rag and wipe down the plastic. While this won’t make it crystal clear, it will improve the looks a great deal, perhaps as much as you wanted to in the first place. This method costs nothing (assuming you own some WD-40) and is pretty easy, just spritz it on and wipe it off.
    A second, slightly more difficult version uses ordinary liquid clear floor polish (the kind you buy at the grocery store for wood and tile floors): same method, wipe on and wipe back off.
    And finally, ordinary car wax usually has a pretty good “scrubbing” action (this is the stuff you use for “paste” waxing) because it contains micro abrasives. After the wax has dried and it’s time to buff it off, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see most of that hazing and all, if not most of the cloudiness disappear…

    Now why would I spend more money on something I already have?

    • u1itn0w2day says:

      I’ve tried waxes which lasted less than a month. The liquid polish I used is at the 6 month mark and counting. I think letting what ever wax DRY as being the key before buffing because the it’s the residue that can dull the clearity.

      • msbask says:

        So you’re saying to use liquid floor polish, let it dry, then buff? Just trying to get down the steps. :)

  13. maxamus2 says:

    Elbow grease involved? Do you also need headlight fluid when you are done?

  14. u1itn0w2day says:

    I used a Turtle Wax lens polish. Works great. And it lasted unlike many other treatments. I also think things like the circular application and buffing motions are key. Also do a second buff with a clean cloth. It helps get what you missed, improperly buffed polish or wax leaves a residue.

  15. Cvscam says:

    I used to detail cars and we would use 2000 grit rubbing compound with electric polisher then some plastic cleaner and the headlight covers would look like new for about a max of about 6 months. The kits that show you gently wiping on something then wiping off all the oxidation are bs.

  16. esc27 says:

    From my brief research a few month back… There are two basic problems that cloud headlights: oxidation and damage. Oxidation can be improved with several different non-abrasive products, but doesn’t make the lenses pristine. Scratches, pitting, etc. have to be buffed out with some sort of abrasive (toothpaste, chemicals, pads, etc.) but this damages the lights and removes protective coatings. My suggestion is to try a non-abrasive cleaner and avoid anything abrasive unless the cloudiness of the lights is a safety risk.

  17. milty45654 says:

    No really, just use toothpaste…it will cost you 30 cents and dramatically improve the light output.
    Same elbow grease as these kits…

  18. Eyeheartpie says:

    These don’t work for everyone. My headlights are on the cusp of being too fogged to pass inspection, and I can’t use these kits because the oxidation seems to be on the inside, not the outside surface. I tried one of these kits before, and it worked slightly, but the headlights are still on the verge of failing a safety inspection.

  19. ashtonn4 says:

    my boyfriend did this for me with a kit that required you to use a drill and sanding discs…it looked great for that week but it soon came right back, lasted a lot longer on his car oddly.

  20. xspook says:

    3M worked best for me.

    Fast Brite was complete garbage – no improvement at all.

  21. Will Rickards says:

    I did the 3M one on my 2001 subaru and it took about an hour each side. You have to buy the masking tape separately. They are like new and have stayed that way since last summer. It gets that paste stuff all over your car though. You’ll need to go through a car wash after it. But highly recommended.

  22. Carlos Spicy Weiner says:

    How much extra would the average cost per car to use freaking GLASS lenses??? I see 5 year old $80K Mercedes Benzes with fogged out headlights…rediculous. The technology’s gotta be there to mold it into all the new weird shapes. My ’99 4Runner still has glass lenses, thank god.

    • Marlin says:

      Not only cost but weight.

      • Carlos Spicy Weiner says:

        I’m not talking the whole light including the reflector/housing, just the lens. Can’t imagine that would add that much weight

    • Applekid ‚îÄ‚îÄ‚î¨ Ôªø„Éé( „Çú-„Çú„Éé) says:

      Given the price of headlamps, it would be quite justified if it was some nice Gorilla Glass or something. I’d feel like a schmuck for paying $150+ per headlamp for some molded plastic crap that’ll just haze over in 5 years.

    • Costner says:

      My Honda pilot uses glass lenses on the driving/fog lights. I am now in the process of buying a replacement because a rock kicked up and went through the glass. Had they been plastic I would bet the rock would have bounced off and I would not be forced to buy a whole new light assembly.

      I had a early 90s VW Jetta a vew years back where a rock went right through the glass lens of the headlight and I had to visit a salvage yard to buy a repalcement. On the plastic lens, the rocks might leave a little nick, but they aren’t likely to go right through and would rarely even crack the lens. I suspect that is why the plastic lenses are more common these days (plus I’m sure they are cheaper due to the complex shapes modern headlamps have to be to meet federal requirements).

      Plus – broken headlights and taillight used to leave broken shards of glass all over the roadway during even minor accidents. The new plastic lenses don’t have that problem. There are pros and cons I guess, but all things considered I’m ok with the plastic ones and haven’t owned a vehicle that has fogged up to need one of these kits.

      • Carlos Spicy Weiner says:

        Broken lenses obviously happen, and I’m sure they’re way more expensive than plastic, but I see quite a few fogged plastic ones just walking around, but in my 34 years of driving, and a decent amount on gravel roads, I’ve yet to pop a glass headlight. Besides, now that they got rid of sealed beams, a little pinhole won’t cause the light to fail. I do get your point about the glass, but there’s alll kinds of nasty stuff left behind ;-).

        I have no idea how long the average plastic lens lasts before opacity sets in, or if it will eventually happen to all…depends on environmental conditions I’m sure. Glad you haven’t had a problem with your Honda.

  23. says:

    Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works magic for about $1.50.

    • Clyde Barrow says:

      during the superbowl, I’ll drink beer and run out and pee on my headlamps. they’ll work just fine after this.

  24. Phil Keeps It Real [Consumerist] says:

    I heard you could use tooth-paste for this !

  25. Mozz says:

    I thought glass headlights were outlawed with the thanks to some lobbyist group. They were claiming glass was hurting people who were hit by cars. Now you can’t see because of a junk plastic lens so the odds increase you might hit someone?

  26. november84 says:

    I actually did this on my 98 Integra, removed the bumper and headlights and sanded them in my lap. However, I did not use a kit but sand paper, an electric sander and Meguiars Plastx. It worked like a charm and the lights did look brand new.

    Ultimately, I recommend removing the bumper to get the lights off, you might waste more time doing so but you’ll learn more about the car, save the paint and have a lot more control on what you’re doing.

  27. emerson7x says:

    …Sign In or Subscribe to read full article and see Ratings

  28. hansolo247 says:

    The only way to do this right is to have a body shop sand, polish and clear-coat your lights.

    I did that for $100, and my lights look spectacular after a year.

  29. nautox says:

    I use this stuff in a yellow bottle called Scratch Out by KIT. It’s 3 dollars and after about 5-7 good scrubbings it does a good job. It also works well with its original purpose which is hiding swirl marks too. I alway shudder when I see these $40 kits or the places that charge $200.

    • u1itn0w2day says:

      It took me at least two polish/buffs with a third buff 10 minutes later to get it but it’s lasted as long as it ever has.

  30. OjO says:

    UGH! Way too much work for a pathetic result using several products. And ours weren’t nearly as bad as some headlight covers I see on older models. Either replace them or, as hansolo recommended, have them professionally resurfaced by a body shop. Surprising how much BETTER you can see at night after replacing them (DOH!) :->

  31. Phreakz0r says:

    Use turtle wax’s rubbing compound and a buffer pad… 5 minutes per headlight and its like new. So fuck these 20-40 dollar kits. And if you cant get rubbing compound, toothpaste with bakingsoda in it, or shit, just mix toothpaste and baking soda… Makes everything clear again. BUT these two methods are not long lasting, 1-2 months max, but they are cheap…

  32. Cycledoc says:

    It’s another one of those car “advances.” Replace old inexpensive technology (glass lenses) with stylish expensive hard to maintain plastic replacement.

    It used to be I could buy a key for a car for 5 bucks or less. Now you are lucky if you can get a replacement key for under $200– the most modern types such as the audi non key igntion what do you call it is probably several hundred dollars.

    High technology, yes. Useful high technology, not for me–but I’m an old guy.

    • econobiker says:

      One problem with the glass headlights is weight of the glass and cost versus plastic headlights.

      That said, plastic headlights are crap- this from a former owner of a ’95 Dodge Neon and current owner of an ’03 PT Cruiser and ’01 Elantra both with fogged plastic lights though the PT is worse overall.

    • shepd says:

      Get the $5 copy made. Cut the key portion off the transponder key. Open the column, tape the key head inside near the ignition. Discard the other piece.

      Now your $5 copy can start the car, and so can all the other ones you made. You can also install the cheap remote starter you were thinking about, as well.

      Yes, you have just disabled anti-theft. Anti-theft is why you need an expensive key, so either you want anti-theft, or you don’t. You will need to inform your insurance company that you no longer have anti-theft in the vehicle, especially if you have comprehensive coverage. If you’ve got third-party only, you (probably!) don’t have to.

      Choice #2 is to buy an ex-fleet vehicle, such as a police car or taxi. Perhaps that’s less appealing, though. Wasn’t to me. :)

  33. Paradoxx says:

    Amazon has full on replacements for a little more. They also take WAAY less time.

    The kits help a little…but for $20-$30 more you can have perfect replacements. I spent less time putting a new set in a 05 grand am than I did just taping up the area around the headlight to try a kit.

    Also..if you get new headlights WITHOUT the bulb…its about the exact same cost as these kits.

    • Bob Lu says:

      It depends. The lens for my car is $200 a pair. And you ill have to rise the car and remove the wheels to replace them. So a good restoration kit sounds like a very good idea.

      • OjO says:

        My experience is it was worth shelling out a fair amount for replacement covers (Honda parts aren’t cheap!) — the lights were fine. The HOURS spent with those kits were extensive and the results were unimpressive, so we tried another kit….and drill/dremel attachments…and different sanding materials. And factoring in having to do this every few months and still see barely any improvement… your choice

        • catgirl4276 says:

          I’ve found Toyota Camry headlights for $30 a side (plastic, sigh,) and by some miracle, the one website actually had real glass Nissan Pathfinder headlight lenses for about $70 the pair. If you look hard enough, it’s possible to get glass lenses in the jurisdictions that still allow them (usually they’re that tempered glass that breaks into bitty pieces, but still stays clearer longer,) or, if your car is of any significant age, the local parts yard sometimes has decent headlights in.

    • GearheadGeek says:

      I’ll second what Bob Lu had to say about it… if you drive something a bit out of the mainstream (it’s just a Subaru Legacy with halogen bulbs, not some exotic car or HID system) you aren’t likely to find $50 headlights. The best I’ve found is about $150 per side for knock-offs, and $270 per side for OEM. The dealer price is $370 a pop.

  34. Gregory says:

    Toothpaste does work.
    Meguire’s makes plastic polish in at least 3 different formulas. Works well, even for foggy plastic convertible windows. Not so good on eyeglasses.

  35. donovanr says:

    I used the anti yellow stuff on my very yellow headlights. Worked like a charm. Now how to clean the dirt that managed to get inside my headlights.

  36. xspook says:
  37. TurboWagon00 says:

    The only problem with these aggressive compounds (or the DIY approach of multiple passes of x000 sandpaper) is that you are stripping off what little UV protection may be left, so while you might get attractive results for a few days/weeks, you have now accelerated the clouding process and it becomes an endless cycle. No wiped-on protectant from a bottle is ever going to be as durable as the OEM application.

    So, it’s good right before trade-in or resale, and that’s about it.

    • framitz says:

      My wife’s car lights were done by me over a year and a half ago. I did it right (same process as professional). The headlights still look just fine today.

      Armour All is what you should use just prior to dumping a junker.

  38. framitz says:

    No need for any ‘kit’.

    If they’re rough, sand them smooth using progressively finer grit, down to 2 to 3 thousand grit, using water as a lubricant to keep the paper from clogging.

    Next use rubbing compound (auto polish, not wax) to polish them. If they still seem a little dull polish with a plastic polish.

    Costs is next to nothing as all the materials can be used for other projects.

    I already had the materials and it took less than 30 minutes to do both my wife’s car headlights, and they were rough to the touch when I started, they now look new.

  39. gspdark1 says:

    Not sure if anyone’s said this already, but the easiest way to not get to the hazy stage in the first place. Every time you wash your car, simply rub in some mild abrasive like Meguairs Ultimate Compound or something similar.

  40. gspdark1 says:

    Not sure if anyone’s said this already, but the easiest way to not get to the hazy stage in the first place. Every time you wash your car, simply rub in some mild abrasive like Meguairs Ultimate Compound or something similar.

  41. missaneurysm says:

    Packing tape.

    No really, packing tape. I put vertical stripes of it side by side over the headlights over a year ago, still looking good! Of course, my car is over 10 years old and has its share of dents and scratches so I could care less about its overall appearance but it’s certainly a cheap alternative.

  42. scoopjones says:

    The kit I purchased at AutoZone did indeed work, and no, it’s not an instant easy-on, easy-off process. It does require some work on your part, and an hour is about right. You sand them wet with finer and finer grits of sandpaper, then apply polish and UV coating. It looks great afterwards. I did notice some minor staining on the bumper below, probably from the coating residue that washed off later. Still, a major safety improvement! I was quite pleased.

  43. jayphat says:

    “Subscribe to to see which products worked best.”

  44. lemortede says:

    I just buy the plastic restoration/deoxidizer stuff from the local auto parts store. $5 and it works great.

  45. RayanneGraff says:

    I used one of these kits a few years ago on my old car. It helped, but it didn’t make them like new.

  46. 4Real says:

    Does Soft-Scrub cleaner work on them??

  47. Scamazon says:

    Meguiar’s #17 Plastic Cleaner and #10 Plastic Polish worked great for me. the stuff has been around for fears and used on convertible top back plastic windows for years.

    On the oxidized headlight subject, how did plastic get approved. Its a safety related issue and these things oxidize shortly after the warranty does…

  48. zombie_batch says:

    My friend who is a car enthusiast recently was polishing his headlights when I visited and so I took advantage and did the same. It’s super easy; I can’t give specifics but google can do that. You need 3 types of sandpaper, one is pretty course and the next two are becoming more and more fine grained. Get some masking tape. Find out a polish to use too. Then fill a bowl with water for lubricant.

    Sand using the whetted, most coarse sandpaper, make several passes over the surface of the lamp. Repeat with each successive piece of sandpaper, each time going with a more fine grained. Finally polish with a clean dry soft rag. It does take an hour, and you might find you need to make many passes with the various sandpapers, but the results are worth it.

  49. rexfromars says:

    I don’t know about you folks, but there are TONS of small repair shops in my area (Charlotte, NC) with signs offering to do this for $20-$30. Why would I bother with a kit when I can have someone else do it for the same price, or just a couple of dollars more? Even if the guy at Joe’s Repair Shop is a total idiot, he’s still probably restored way more headlights than I ever have!

  50. ben_marko says:

    I’ve used them on a 2003 Nissan Frontier – with very dull and yellowed headlights. It worked great, but not sure if it lasts since I sold it!

  51. tbail25 says:

    Lately, I’ve just been hitting deer and getting the headlights replaced completely. Been thru 2 headlights on the right, one on the left. :D

  52. teamplur says:

    There was a guy that would come to my dad’s auto shop and sell this service. He did it on my car and it was like a night and day difference. Ya it does take some time and effort to look nice, but so does a wax job on the paint. I think this is a great option for plastic lenses if you aren’t looking to replace them just yet.

  53. maruawe says:

    It really gets me when people are complaining about foggy headlights and then gripe when it takes a little elbow grease and time to save yourself two or three hundred dollars. That means that you are getting paid $175 to $275 for an hours work. If doing actual work for an hour is so bothersome go buy the new lens But stop griping about a little work

  54. VeeKaChu says:

    I DIY’ed it with some fine sandpaper and a buffer- lot of elbow grease is necessary with this method, and a little bit of faith, because you basically make it horribly worse, to eventually make it all better.

  55. Shorebreak says:

    Just have it done at Wall-Mart for $40 and get it over with. No muss, no fuss.

  56. do-it-myself says:

    When I had this issue, I used Meguire’s PlastX. It’s $5! None of these products prevent future oxidation which can come back within less than a year. Why waste more money?

  57. do-it-myself says:

    When I had this issue, I used Meguire’s PlastX. It’s $5! None of these products prevent future oxidation which can come back within less than a year. Why waste more money?

  58. yankinwaoz says:

    Hey Detroit. Want to make your cars stand out? Replace that stupid plastic lenses with Gorilla Glass. The same glass used on the current generation of mobile phones like the iPhone. It is made my Corning Glass, a US company! Win, Win, Win.

  59. yankinwaoz says:

    Hey Detroit. Want to make your cars stand out? Replace that stupid plastic lenses with Gorilla Glass. The same glass used on the current generation of mobile phones like the iPhone. It is made my Corning Glass, a US company! Win, Win, Win.

  60. NightWriter says:

    “We Don’t Take Ads!” is listed prominently on this page. Oh really? This article was nothing but an advertisement. All of a sudden I doubt the usefulness of this site.

  61. CorvetteJoe says:

    I bought one of the original CLEAR kits many years ago and it worked great.

    A few years back I then bought one of the turtle wax box kits. I’ve only ever used the 1st stage polishing compound and have never had to use the sanding pads or other stages it came with. There was enough in the bottle of polishing compound that I have used it for years now on many different cars for myself, family and friends. That stuff goes a long way.