10 Things To Never Say To A Car Dealer

ForbesAutos has ten things you should never say to a car dealer, unless you feel like beefing up his kid’s college fund. Hit the link to find out their rationale. The basic premise is hide your assets and weaknesses until the right moment, to not say stupid crap, and watch out for the little maneuvers that hand over control to the salesman.

10. “I think you can do a lot better than that.”
9. “Sure, I’ll look at the numbers with you.”
8. “What’s the lowest price you can give me?”
7. “I’ll take whatever the popular options are.”
6. “Oh, I’ve wanted one of these all my life.”
5. “I’m not sure…which model do you think I need?”
4. “I’m only buying the car with cash.”
3. “Yes, I have a trade-in.”
2. “I can afford this much per month.”
1. “I’m ready to buy now.”

Things to Never Say to a Dealer [ForbesAutos]

Comments

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  1. 87MustangGT says:

    Why not #10? I understand why they have all the others.

  2. crnk says:

    Wasn’t this already posted from a different source a couple of months ago?
    I also think that several of these comments are ok to make. As stated in the first post, what is wrong with #10. It is an admission that you think they’re jerking you around.
    Why is it not fine to state that you are ready to buy? Isn’t that the point of shopping for a car? I think a sales person would not want to work with you if they didn’t think a sale would come of it.

    If you arrive prepared and with research to know what car and price you want, then the buyer is at an advantage. My parents shop around, return to the dealer they like best, and get the salesperson to negotiate the price and features.

  3. Dead Wrestlers Society says:

    I’ve been with people who said #6. Talk about killing all your leverage.

  4. DashTheHand says:

    I think many of these are fine to say, as long as you have full knowledge of the situation going in. Following the guide that was previously posted on Consumerist of how to buy a car, go in with extensive knowledge, let the guy jerk you around some, and then go on the offensive after he thinks hes going to make a killing off you. Lure him into a false sense of security by making him think you’re some rube, and then go for the jugular on driving that price down or walking away.

  5. “this is my first car” should definitely be on there

  6. bbbici says:

    Ha, I’ve experienced all of those comments.

    But I sold Mercedes, which was pretty easy. There’s not much convincing that needs to be done, buyers tend to understand the concept of profit, or they don’t want to seem cheap by asking for a ridiculous discount.

  7. Myron says:

    I agree about leaving the trade-in off the table, but in my limited experience you will then get killed on the trade in price. I think the best approach is to use email or fax to pit several dealerships against each other to get you the best total deal – new car and trade in together.

    And if you get uncomfortable with the in person sales experience, like they pull in some prick to double team you with the sales person, just get up and walk away. If they won’t give you your license back after a test drive, call 911. And finally, don’t let them ‘have a mechanic look over’ your trade in while you test drive. Some dealerships won’t give your car back while they continue to pressure you to buy. Again, call 911.

  8. SaveMeJeebus says:

    Oh and don’t forget the list of things your wife shouldn’t say:

    1) I think you should take it
    2) Come on honey we need to go
    3) He did give us donuts
    4) They are so nice and friendly here
    5) That is a really good price
    6) Are you going to tell them about X problems on the trade in?
    7) Tell him it is too high because we only have X amount to spend

  9. rdm24 says:

    I felt kinda hosed when I bought my car. I was guilty of #2. Luckily, I ended up with a car that satisfied me, so I didn’t really feel any remorse. I just didn’t get the best possible deal on it.

    Next time (which I hope will be in about 5 years at the earliest!), I’m going to a) settle on a final price, not a monthly payment, and b) not make any decisions that day.

  10. Amelie says:

    @SaveMeJeebus: You mean the things your wife tried to stop you from saying?

  11. nweaver says:

    Probably the biggest TO DO. Call around and negotiate an OUT THE DOOR price quote.

    And ideally do it online so you can print out the emails and have them with you when you sign the papers.

  12. ShadowArmor says:

    How about “I don’t really like conflict, and I know you need to make a living”.

    I think the rationale behind #10 is more about HOW you say it. If you are condescending and accusatory, you’ll send them into a defensive mode. Unless you have all the facts to back up the attitude (e.g. I know your dealership gets $1,500 in under the table incentives JUST for SELLING a car) then you may want to soften the delivery.

  13. startertan says:

    I sort of got screwed as well when I bought my car. It was a brand new model and hit the US literally 2 weeks prior. It was a G35 Coupe that I bought back in 11/2002. I ended up paying sticker. They weren’t budging on the price b/c they were hot. People were waiting months for their car to arrive. It was even worse if you wanted a manual. I never regretted it though b/c I love that car.

    Now my next car, if it’s some kind of run of the mill Honda or Toyota, I’m going to have a field day with pitting dealers against each other.

  14. bsankr says:

    @87MustangGT: read the article.

  15. zamafir says:

    wow, what bullshit, the last time I said #4 and #1 I picked up a car for $100 over invoice, and thousands below MSRP. Actually the last three times.

    Here’s a new one, fuck this list, go into the dealer knowing the invoice and what the car is selling for in relation to it. If the dealer won’t deal, go to another one. For every dealer who’s sticking to MSRP, or couple, there are the other, successful dealers who are willing to deal due to the kickback they receive from the car manufacturer for selling a lot of cars.

    In short, don’t fall into the need it now trap. walk in, if they won’t deal, move on. Then again, it’s easy to say living in so-cal where there’s 40 dealers of every brand in a two hour radius.

  16. Flackette Goes Retro says:

    I used all these pointers to buy my car last year, to great effect. I remained noncommittal to the end, and willing to walk away at any moment. Result: I got my current car for under book, and got above book on my trade-in.

    I learned these things by watching my parents negotiate for cars as a child. It’s amazing what you pick up when the salesman thinks you’re just playing with the paint chip brochures.

    If you want to produce a daughter (or son for that matter) who can walk into a dealership and not be intimidated by the salesmen, make sure she hears plenty of money and negotiating talk as a young’n.

  17. BlondeGrlz says:

    I drove around town to find out the value of my trade-in even before I decided what car I wanted. It was a 10 year old Honda but the Honda place didn’t even want to look at it and the Ford place said $1000. I got two local used car places to offer $2000, then told them the other’s offer. I ended up getting $3000…which was ridiculously good for that piece of crap. Of course, that was after I agreed to buy a car from them, but if I had just taken the first offer I’d be out a grand.
    But then I fell for the “I can afford x a month” thing.

  18. quiksilver says:

    @SaveMeJeebus: Awesome! I agree!

  19. POLAR says:

    After a few years in the business, I’m surprised to see the “Why of course I’ll pay an insane amount of money on rust-proofing that’s unnecessary on today’s cars, and gimme that perma-shine (ordinary wax) while you’re at it.”

  20. miran says:

    The number one thing to say “I guess you are not ready to sell me a car, good bye.” And mean it.

  21. indiie says:

    First time I went to a dealer for a car, I must have walked out of the office 5 or 6 times during negotiation. Each time they chased me down and made me a marginally better offer, until it was what I wanted.
    Best time to shop for a car? Just before the end of the year.

  22. camille_javal says:

    I still remember my parents at the dealership when my dad leased a sports car for a couple of years. It was a great deal, and it was all my mom’s doing. She wouldn’t let the guy try to upsell them on anything, and any moment he pushed a little too much, or started screwing them around, or ignoring what the were saying, she’d stand up and start to leave. She kept making sure he knew they didn’t *need* to get that car that day, and went as far as to reference the fact that it was January and raining in Virginia, and it was clear the dealership wasn’t doing a lot of business (these were convertibles). It was clear the guy wanted to deck my mom by the end of it, but I know they got some ridiculous deal that actually made leasing worth it.

    @ savemejeebus: go back to the catskills.

  23. balthisar says:

    I don’t get those of you that fall for the whole “what can you afford per month” thing. What I *can* afford per month and what I’m *willing* to afford per month are entirely different things. I’m a pretty dumb guy, and even I know that. Do you all go in there and just get the most expensive thing you can afford?

  24. GearheadGeek says:

    @startertan: As long as you’re happy with the car for the price, at least you’re not having the buyer’s remorse issues on top of paying MSRP. The G35 Coupe wasn’t limited production or anything, though… you were just paying a “want it NOW” premium. An Acura salesworm wanted me to pay a similar premium for a TSX not long after they came out, and tried to convince me I didn’t really want a manual transmission (since that dealer had none to offer at that point.) I didn’t buy a TSX, but if I’d been in love with it I could have just waited a couple of months until they had inventory and were more willing to negotiate.

  25. @ruggels: I think with #1 there’s a difference between “I’m ready to buy today … if the price is right” and “I HAVE to buy today.”

    Letting people know you’re actually ready to buy, not just looking & comparing, does tend to get things moving a little better and gives them incentive to meet your price. But if you’re all desperate to close NOW, they can tell.

  26. target_veteran says:

    #1 is a conditional thing. I walked into the dealership and that was the first thing out of my mouth, followed by “for my price.” “I’m ready to buy” can be a very powerful statement to save you money, if you use it right. Make sure you’re immediately ready to buy. Don’t dither or dink around. Walk in, explain to the salesman that 20-30 minutes of work can get him commission TODAY!!! if he’s willing to play ball with you right now. Show him he’ll still make a healthy profit, but won’t make anything if your terms aren’t met. Walk the sales guy (and sales manager, if needed) through sound figures to support this.

    TFA talks about this, but the actual quote there is misleading.

  27. dip_cone says:

    Haggling makes me insanely uncomfortable. I found the “dealer price” for cars online, which seemed somewhat accurate. Got a bank loan for a few percentages above that amount (assuming all dealers get some hidden incentives for volume sales and such) went into a dealership, went into an office. Said “I want this car with these options, I don’t need to discuss it, I will give XX amount of money, if you can make the deal I’ll buy it right now, take your time and talk to whoever you need to” All said in a light tone, trying not to be rude. It got a laugh and a no at the first dealership, and a deal at the second. Plus it saved me from all the “let me ask my manager, here’s what we can do” crap that makes my skin crawl. I will do the same for my next car. Sure it breaks some the list rules but it worked for me.

  28. Sucko-T says:

    Just buy the loss leader and make them add on any other applicable discounts (recent grad, military, business owner etc..) Sometimes you’ll spend less than you would on a used car of the same model.

  29. brownie has no witty phrase to add says:

    @rdm24: I don’t think there is anything wrong with buying same-day, provided you have done your research beforehand. How much are your weekends worth to you?

    What I hate about all of the “expert” strategies for car buying (involving repeated faxing/emailing over days or weeks, visits to multiple dealers on multiple days, etc.) is that they assume your time is worthless. Personally, given the choice between (a) saving another $300 amortized over the life of the car, or (b) NOT having to spend more than a single weekend afternoon of precious family time haggling with a car dealer, I choose (b) every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

    In my limited experience, you can achieve at least 90% of the potential savings with far less than half of the effort, simply by doing lots of research ahead of time (so the visit to the dealer is only to do a confirmatory test drive, and to actually do the deal), and by using basic common-sense “Negotiating 101″ tactics.

    Remember: part of the reason dealers jerk people around is because shoppers who follow the “expert” strategies pull their best price out of them, then shop that price around town looking for something even cheaper. If you make it clear you’re not a rube, but you’re also not going to jerk them around, squeeze out every last dollar and then leave them swinging in the wind, you’ll still get a good deal and it will be much more pleasant for both parties.

    My basic rule for pleasant negotiations: be honest about your intentions, and cagey about your price.

  30. dirtymoney says:

    I guess I am wierd, but I REFUSE to buy from a car dealer. I only buy used from an individual (after I have had my mechanic go over it with a fine-toothed comb).

    I will never buy a brand new car. Only used.

  31. MrEvil says:

    When I bought my F250 I searched online for trucks that I liked with the options I wanted. Figured out my wiggle room (what stuff I could live without if the deal was right). I was buying used though so it makes car selection a lot more difficult and often getting a good deal even harder. I had $4000 for a down payment.

    Since I was buying with my mom (had no credit at the time for a car loan on my own) We toured the Ford dealers in her area and told them which truck we wanted to look at and what price we were looking at. Finally settled on my Blue Crew Cab and got the price low enough where I NEVER was upside down on the loan. It REALLY helps when car shopping to already have financing arranged through your credit union like I did.

    The only things I had to give up as for what I wanted were 2WD and power mirrors. The truck I ended up buying was 4×4 and had manual mirrors, but I didn’t pay more than I would have for a 2WD.

  32. I went in and gave an ultimatum: I wanted this car, with this package, for under $300 a month and with $1,000 down. “Can you do this for me?” I asked. “Sure,” he said. And he did.

  33. MrEvil says:

    @dirtymoney: Amen to buying used only. Only way I’d buy brand new is if I hit the lottery and could just pay them in cash. It’s foolish to make payments on something that’s worth half of what you owe. At least with used vehicles and a big down payment you can stay above the principal on the loan. Also no need for gap coverage on insurance.

  34. SaveMeJeebus says:

    @loquaciousmusic: I hope you also mentioned the number of months you wanted it financed for. If not, I would gladly sell you a car on those terms too.

  35. remusrm says:

    I usually give them 3 tries and I walked out… I do my research and get an idea what i should pay and wiggle around -10 or +10 bucks/month. it works great. I am honest and tell them right. I also got another 8 cars before, so I get some experience here. And a note for the “buy only used” crowd. come and buy a car in cali. Most likely is crap. Not be be stereotypical but all these armenians here do is sell salvaged cars with clean titles. I know, is against the law, but when you can clean the title etc, and rebuild it in shop, tells you something.

  36. wring says:

    Wouldn’t a car dealer most likely give you a better deal if you’re paying in cash? Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

  37. rickshawed says:

    I bought my first car this year. Went with a new Accord.

    I spent 6 hours in the dealership but here are a couple things I did that could help someone else:

    -I had a notepad with the MSRP and invoice of all the different trims of the car I wanted so they couldn’t play games switching the trim
    -There’s a quasi-famous dealership in my area that does a ton of volume. I kept mentioning to my salesguy I want to go check with them before buying. You could see the fear because he knew I wouldn’t come back and lowered the price accordingly
    -When they tried to do that confusing “4-square” thing on paper and write down random numbers, I would occasionally grab the paper, cross his numbers out and write my own random numbers.
    -Even though I knew I wanted an Accord, I kept saying I was looking at the Mazda 6 and Camry just so he knew I wasn’t hellbent on a Honda
    -Everytime he said something obviously “salesy”, I would look down at my notepad and snicker to let him know I knew what he was doing.
    -I would also interrupt him a lot and ask random questions. I’m not a rude person at ALL but the salesperson is trying to control the situation is this one way to take some of that control back to level the playing field.
    -Even though I planned on paying in cash, I told them they could do the financing to make some $ on the back end. I got a loan through them and paid it off in full 90 days after the loan began to avoid pre-payment penalty.
    -I got the car for $500 under invoice and went on the last day of March. So, in addition to the being the last day of the month, it was the last day of the quarter. They were hungry. I approached the desk and asked, “Which guy here really needs a sale today?”. They gave me a kid who was obviously green and the managers were obviously willing to budge quite a bit just to get this kid a sale.

  38. @SaveMeJeebus: Yeah, I forgot — I did happen to mention the length of the financial commitment!

  39. enm4r says:

    I’m just surprised people still play this game. What a joke. If you want new:

    1) Buy a pure priced car
    2) If that is not an option, come in knowledgable, give them a reasonable out the door price, and let them take it or leave it.

    It’s really not that hard. Like a few people have said, 90-95% of the savings can be had with this method, and so you might pay an additional $100 over 3 years, it’s not going to kill you. Be reasonable, and let them tell you if they want to do business. If not, take it elsewhere. crycry had it right. All these “rules” are pointless if you refuse to play their game.

  40. teh says:

    @Myron: Please do a find and replace in this post to exchange “911” with “the police.” A dealership holding your license is not an emergency.

  41. pearlandopal says:

    God, I hate the entire car dealership game. It’s either Carmax or private sellers for me; I don’t want to haggle, I’ll either pay what’s on the sticker or go find it somewhere else. It’s just a game I’m not interested in playing.

  42. BlondeGrlz says:

    @rickshawed: Hey, do I know you?

  43. smartwatermelon says:

    If you are a AAA member, you can take advantage of a free service: fleet pricing. AAA negotiates with the fleet managers of local dealerships to get the best deal for their members. There’s no haggling, no negotiating, and you deal with the fleet manager who is only interested in volume–not scamming you into buying the rust protector. I’ve done this for my last three cars and will do it again every time.

  44. lalligood says:

    IMHO, if you are truly serious about buying a car when you step on the lot, saying #10 to the salesperson indicates to them your intent & it gets their attention. To me, that’s not a bad thing…

    However, the *WORST* thing you can ever say is “I’m looking for a payment around $____.” Consider that with a 60 month loan, for every $8.33 per month that you overpay (due to poor negotiation), that’s $500 you pay out over the life of the loan!

  45. SOhp101 says:

    Yet again, terrible advice from Forbes. Please stop making posts about them.

    Like many things in life, if you’re willing to play the game, then you end up way ahead.

  46. dirtymoney says:

    @enm4r:

    and the average savvy salesman will ID you the minute you open your mouth & realize that you are a Pain-in-the-@ss customer to sell to & will let you walk out the door & then he will wait for easier prey.

    Heck! When i was first starting out just THINKING about buying a car from a dealership… they knew what I was up to right away. I have even had car salesmen insult me and the car I had driven in because they knew I wasnt going to play their game.

  47. xamarshahx says:

    some of these things are completely false, like the cash point. i just bought a car last week and the dealer said he would go lower if I would pay cash, then as i proceeded to leave he went lower and offered the 0% financing. they like cash cause it means they have the money immediately. always deal with the final value, not with monthly payments, mention trade-ins after a deal has been reached, and don’t ever think you can’t go below invoice, dealers get special incentives from the manufacturer too, and especially with year end clearances, they will go way lower then invoice. i just got mine 1400 below invoice. also, saying this is not a problem as long as you stay friendly and courteous: 10. “I think you can do a lot better than that.”

  48. mconfoy says:

    @87MustangGT: read the article

    @crnk: the dealer they like best then negotiate? well they over pay then. and you are ready to buy when you are satisfied you have the best price possible.

    @DashTheHand: yea, keep talking, give away your emotions with facial tics, etc. works in poker too, right?

    @camille_javal: he must have been a fine actor. leasing a car is never, ever, a great deal.

    @dirtymoney: the guys on “car talk” radio say unless you are going to hold on to the new car for at least 10 years, this is the best thing to do. The ROI will be higher.

    @loquaciousmusic: really, i got the same deal but for only $250 a month…

  49. target_veteran says:

    @wring: Re: Cash

    There are several ways that dealers profit from a car transaction. Here’s the best known:
    1. Holdback, which is about 2-3% of MSRP. This is pretty much built-in profit.
    2. Factory to dealer incentives (sell X of this model, get a $Y0000 bonus).
    3. Markup over invoice (MSRP).
    4. Accessories and add-ons.
    5. Insurance.
    6. *A cut of financing through the manufacturer’s finance company!*
    7. If it’s a really large dealer, they may have their *own* finance company, and they’ll keep 100% of the interest.

    Paying cash immediately tells them they won’t see a penny from 6 or 7. It’s essentially saying “hey, you won’t be making as much money from me.” It’s a cue for them to get that money back somewhere else.

    Btw, as far as used vs. new goes, it really depends on the vehicle and your area. When I was looking around for cars, I knew I wanted an econo box, since I mostly use it for commuting. I looked at used Civics and Corollas, but figured out that unless I went back 4+ years, about 1-2k extra got me a brand new Fit Sport, i.e., one that had a full warranty and I knew everything that happened to it. The savings of used really kick in on things that depreciate faster, not economy cars.

  50. BigNutty says:

    I get the wholesale price off the Internet. Then I have found that cash is king. I love to walk in with a big wad and start negotiating on something I want.

    They know they can’t make any money off all the extra crap they sneak into the loans from me, but if your timing is right, they might be trying to reduce the inventory.

  51. Chongo says:

    Also, never say to a dealer “I need a car today, my other one is going to be impounded tomorrow”. After I got taken I caught the salesmen actually laughing at me.

    Ahh to be young again.

  52. mantari says:

    I like using the tool of an awkward gap of silence. I also like the tool of creating a conflict. But I have to warn the people who I am with ahead of time, or they try to fill in the uncomfortable silence or to diffuse any tension that they may feel. Tension is your friend.

  53. nosirrahg says:

    Speaking of #5…The last time my sister-in-law bought a car, she showed up in a new Taurus, and was going on and on about what a great experience she had and how nice her salesperson was. She started telling us how he took the time and let her test drive lots of different cars – F150s, Explorers, Crown Vics, Mustangs, etc. before she decided the Taurus was the car for her. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that he didn’t sell her a Taurus, he sold her a full-sized FWD sedan. She should have known that going in, and then cross-shopped various models in that size/price range, but the damage was already done, so I kept my mouth shut. Considering her dad doesn’t see a need to test drive a new car before buying it because “it’s brand new so there shouldn’t be anything wrong with it”, I guess the fact that she actually test drove something is a step in right direction.

  54. nosirrahg says:

    @flackette: When I started college my folks and I went in together on my first car. The day we went it was storming pretty bad, and there was virtually no one in the dealership. I remember during the in-office negotiation my dad saying something about “you guys don’t want to sell a car today” and getting up to walk out the door, but they got him to sit back down. About that time the weather service issued a tornado warning, and the sirens started going off all over town, so the few people left in the dealership quickly departed. We got a pretty good deal on the car as I recall, and I definitely learned a thing or two.

  55. theblackdog says:

    Sometimes reading the fine print on a car dealer advertisement is helpful as well. My parents were looking to buy a car and we had seen a used one on the lot they liked. Lo and behold, a few weeks later I’m looking at their ad and that car is in there, and in the fine print in the description it says “sp 6995″ which was “Sale price, 6995″ So my parents decide to jump on it because it was about 2000 less than what it had been. They go to the dealership and the guy quotes them 7500, my parents call BS and leave and bring the ad back in to prove what they had seen.

    I guess the guy really wanted to sell the car because he said it was a misprint and it should not have been that price (and there was the “Not responsible for errors in the ad” clause) but he did sell it to my parents for that price.

  56. mehugtree says:

    I’m the guy who always gets taken at the car dealership. I’m the worst negotiator in the world. That’s why I vow to pay cash for everything from here on out.

    seriously, I suck.

  57. Maverickewu says:

    Last two cars my parents have bought were handled smartly and ahead of time. Dad works for people who buy a lot of cars, so one dealership wanted the business. For the 07 Edge they just bought, they paid 200 over dealer invoice (what the dealer pays for it), plus in this case since they had to get it from the other side of the state, a few hundred for the moving charge. My dad asked the other Ford dealer that was in the area about price for said/similar vehicle, they wanted to “discuss it.” Dad didn’t have time, because it was busy season at work, so was doing it all over the phone. He told the second dealer that he had a price from the first dealer and wanted to know their price. They asked instead to find out what the other dealer offered. It kept going back and forth. Obviously he went with the first dealer.

    I’m still young, but I’ve already quickly figured out what the three big rules for buying a new vehicle are:

    1) Know exactly what you want and what features you want in the vehicle/or don’t want.

    2) Know exactly what you’re willing to pay for it (easier if you get pre-financed, though some special financing can still be cheaper than what you find pre-financed)

    3) (the hardest one) Don’t be in a hurry. Parents bought the Edge because my mom hurt her back at work, and the Accord they had (and traded in) sat so low to the ground that it was harder for her to get in and out of it. Parents wouldn’t have bought a new car so quickly (maybe ever again) if it weren’t for that fact (the accord was 2 years old). However, since they already had the accord, they weren’t in a hurry and could have waited as long as needed to get the deal they wanted.

    So forget what “not” to say, know what to do beforehand.

  58. Sonnymooks says:

    @strum40:

    Thats probably the best advice on this thread.

  59. TechnoDestructo says:

    “Never scold or accuse the salespeople.”

    If you have a legitimate reason to do either, you should not buy a car from that dealer. Just pretend their cars don’t exist.

  60. theysaidwhat says:

    You really do have to be willing to walk away. I accompanied a boyfriend when he went to buy his Lexus, and he wanted it so badly that he was letting the salesguy jerk him around. I’m in sales myself and I just got up and left. First the bf followed me, although he was awfully confused, and then the salesguy followed me, as he had figured out who was in charge. We negotiated the final deal on the driveway of the dealership.

    As others have said, you really do need to know what the dealer paid for the car and what they stand to make from it in order to negotiate well. I got my last car, a Saturn Vue, for a substantial discount below the “GM employee pricing” that was on offer at the time, got them to throw in some extras like the heavy duty rubber floormats, and at.9% financing. You can haggle on those ‘no-haggle’ prices, folks. Most folks just don’t. This dealer actually drove into Manhattan to pick me up and take me to the dealership in NJ, so I knew out of the gate they were desperate to make a sale. I still can’t believe the deal Ii got on that car!

  61. hexychick says:

    I think I violated at least half of these things when I went car shopping in June and I still managed to go it alone (young single female) and walk out with the exact vehicle I wanted, 2 thousand under blue book value, outstanding customer service experience, and less than 3 hours at the dealer. I even got lower financing on it than my pre-approved blank check loan so I saved money. I realize that this is the exception to the rule though. I think I was just lucky that day.

  62. guymandude says:

    1st of all I have a newz flash for you guys. “Invoice” is NOT the dealers cost. If you would have done your research you’d know that. Think of it like a software rebate. You go in… see the software and it says 50$ with 10$ mail in rebate. The invoice (your receipt) says 50$ but your actual cost was 40$. The car game is the same game. Also I NEVER hesitate to say #10. When people bullshit me I call them on it. In fact I just bought a car 2510$ below the sticker price b/c I called the salesman on all his BS and got up to walk out 2X. Don’t EVER be afraid to walk out and any price they give you today can be had tomorrow.

  63. Shaykay1951 says:

    @dirtymoney:

    Recently my hubby and I were looking at buying a new pickup truck (GMC Sierra 1500). We checked at several dealerships in our area. We went to one in Pryor, OK. Got out of the truck and looked around. There was not a single salesman come out to even talk to us. When we left, I told my husband, “Well, this frelling dealership just lost our business.” We will not even go back to that dealership, even if they sent us a check for $10,000 off!